Strip, Body & Paint

Unlike MAACO and Earl Scheib, we don’t “package” paint jobs. In fact, we do not offer paint jobs by themselves, but typically only as part of a restoration or – in some cases – in combination with a sodablasting job. Every project is treated separately and the work that goes into the final product is determined by client desires. The topics discussed below are strictly offered as a guideline to assist our restoration clients in determining just what it is you want us to do for you.

SODABLASTING: We think so highly of using sodablasting to strip cars during restoration that we decided to invest in our own sodablasting rig just so that we’d have access to it here whenever we need it. You can read more about the benefits of this process on Sodablasting webpage. The standard rate for sodablasting is $250/hr including all labor, fuel and blasting media. Most cars with an original paint job (one with little previous bodywork and that hasn’t been repainted over another paint job) typically takes 4-6 hours to do the exterior. The amount of time required will vary greatly depending upon the number of layers of paint on the body and any body filler, rust or other material under the paint. Our sampling of work has shown that original paint can be stripped off at a rate of approximately 0.85 square feet per minute. Sodablasting engine bays, wheel wells, interiors, trunks and underbodies can take significantly longer on a per-square-foot basis because of blow-back in enclosed areas, difficulties reaching into tight spots and layers of grease, grime and undercoating. When contracted to blast an entire vehicle, we typically mount the chassis on our rotisserie (mount/dismount charges are at our standard labor rates) so that we can get at everything much easier. Full-car jobs (inside, outside, underneath, etc.) typically take 10-15 hours to blast completely depending upon size of the vehicle and how much we’ve got to blast through.

CORROSION PROTECTION: Once the body has been stripped, we normally acid-wash and then coat the exterior (and – depending on the project specifications – the interior, engine bay and underbody) with two coats of self-etching primer. This not only ensures a better bond between the metal body and the layers of paint products it also provides corrosion protection that isn’t inherent in the primers used in the bodywork process.

BODYWORK: In our vernacular, bodywork begins with a stripped body/chassis and ends with a body that has been epoxy primed, coated with high-build primer, then block-sanded using a guide coat to ensure a straight body. Just how straight the final product winds up being is dependent upon the client’s desired level of quality in the overall finish. You never really know how much bodywork is going to be required on a car until you find out what you’ve got under the paint, grease, grime and undercoating. Rusted body panels are automatically replaced or patched with new sheet metal whenever rust has gone through a panel. Exceptions may be warranted in the case of small pin holes if we can properly treat the metal to ensure that the rust is stopped. Unless otherwise requested by the client, rusted areas that have not rusted through are stripped of rust (to the extent possible), treated to stop the rust, then filled as necessary (using either plastic body filler or lead “body solder”) to provide an invisible repair that will last. The level of attention to detail in the bodywork goes hand-in-hand with the quality level of the final paint job desired. Bodywork is charged out at the standard shop rates plus materials.

PAINT JOB: Once bodywork has been completed, the vehicle is sprayed with a coat of sealer primer to ensure a uniform finish when color is applied and to provide a chemical bond between the cured & sanded high-build primer and subsequent color & clear coats. Unless otherwise specified, all paint jobs are done in two stages – base coat followed by clear coat. Levels of finish vary depending upon client desires. The quality of materials used can affect the overall cost as well as the quality and durability of the finish.

We rely upon PPG’s line of paint products for most of our restorations. Selecting a grade of paint materials for a project has a noticeable affect on the appearance of a paint job, but it has even more of an affect on the durability of the finish.

• Base Grade Paint: PPG’s base product line (Omni) is typically used by repair shops that cater to used car dealerships for quick repairs that make a car look good for sale. While this product line can look very good on a car when properly applied and finished, durability and tolerance to UV rays is not the greatest. So, we typically do not recommend or use the Omni product line..
• Mid Grade Paint: PPG’s mid-grade paint line is the Deltron 2000 series. When properly applied and finished, it presents nicely and holds up very well when exposed to the elements. Materials cost have gone sky high over the past few years. As of 2023, a gallon of base color coat (typically enough for a Mustang-size exterior) runs $1,000 or more. By the time you account for the sealer primer, base coats, and clear coats, materials used on "paint day" can run $3,000 to $5,000.
• High Grade Paint: When a show-level paint job is desired, the materials used are determined on a per-project basis. Show car requirements are obviously much higher than “normal” vehicles and client requirements warrant leaving the product line to be used open to discussion. While PPG has high grades of paint, other product lines such as House of Color may be used. Materials costs will vary widely. It is important to note that familiarity with the product line makes a tremendous difference in the final product. Given than nearly all of our painting experience has been with PPG products, we strongly suggest against straying from their product line - at least when we are the shop doing the work.