Effective May 1, 2017, the base labor rate for all services (except sodablasting) is $110/hr. 100-Hour blocks of prepaid labor will be sold at the discouted rate of $100/hr. Projects that are already underway and those with deposits holding a spot in the backlog queue will be grandfathered in at their originally-quoted rate. See our "Ways to Pay" page (Company Menu) for more information.
Midlife Classics
on Facebook

Current
"Full Inventory"
(Projects, Completions and Personal Collection)


77 Lancia Scorpion


67 Camaro RS Conv.


68 Austin Healey Sprite


68 Cougar


69 Corvette


70 Opel GT


69 Marcos 3000GT


86 TVR 280i


73 TVR 2500M


90 Buick Reatta

Prepare to Blast Off!



Sodablasting is a great way to strip almost any vehicle down to bare metal. It cuts through paint as fast - or faster - than just about any other process you might choose to use. Yet, it leaves the metal undamaged. In fact, on bodies that have never before been sanded, the metal is left with the original surface-tension boundary layer that it had when it left the foundry. This means that it will not flash-rust overnight as it might if it were sandblasted, sanded or stripped by any other means that etches the metal. And, for metal that has seen prior sanding, the soda residue left on the body helps to prevent flash rusting as well.

As great as sodablasting is, there are some considerations to keep in mind before you bring us your car or truck for sodablasting.

When the baking soda granules strike the surface, they disintegrate into particles so fine that they might as well be smoke. This means that soda residue will get into everything. So, seal off or remove everything that might possibly be damaged by soda residue - such as:

  • Instruments
  • Electronics
  • Engine openings
  • Upholstery
  • Headliners
  • Carpet
Basically, your best bet - if possible - is to bring us a bare shell without anything attached or installed. We cannot take responsibility for "collateral damage" caused to items affected by soda residue. And, do not expect any kind of tape masking or plastic sheeting to survive 200 cubic feet per minute of air & soda blasting out of the nozzle at 150 psi!

One alternative option is to have us use our water-injection attachment when we blast your vehicle. Injecting water into the blast stream significantly reduces the amount of dust/smoke residue. However, anywhere the soda collects, it will have to be removed as soon as possible or it will harden into a rock-like material that will take some effort to remove. We can rinse the body thoroughly and attempt to remove all the soda that collects in nooks and crannies, but we can't guarantee we can get it all. Also, if we rinse away all the soda dust, you'll want to etch prime the body ASAP to prevent flash rusting.

After sodablasting, the soda residue helps to ward off flash rusting for up to 6 weeks. But, it is imperative that you thoroughly rinse all the soda off the body before applying any paint products. Also, if the body has never been sanded in the past, you will need to etch the metal with some sort of mild acid wash. Metal prep products are readily available at all automotive paint supply stores and through several other common sources. Failure to etch the metal can prevent paint products from forming a secure bond to the metal. So do not forget to etch!

We usually do our sheetmetal repairs before rinsing, etching or applying any kind of paint products on the sodablasted body. However, once all sheetmetal work is complete and after rinsing and acid-washing the body, we highly recommend applying a quality etching primer (such as PPG DPX171) to ensure both a good bond to the metal and to enhance corrosion protection.




Send Mail to
bob@midlifeclassics.com